Is there a Witchdoctor in the house?

Forget courses of antibiotics or the psychiatrists’ couch, many Peruvians prefer to employ the services of a curandero, or curer, a person skilled in the use of herbs and potions to heal bodily ailments and fend off those potentially troublesome evil spirits. Such curers performed similar functions in Moche times and methods have remained virtually unchanged since then.

The place where it all takes place bears little resemblance to your average doctor’s surgery. Take the human skull sitting proudly center stage. Human skulls are ever-present at these consultations as participants believe the spirit of the skull will protect them, as well as the curer, from sorcery or even from the evil spells of rival curers.

The session usually starts just before midnight and lasts most of the night. It all happens in total darkness. In order to get around this slight inconvenience, the curer, in his one concession to modern technology, will use a flashlight to identify the various potions, herbs and charms that cover his table. Potions are often made out of perfume mixed with such items as limejuice, sugar and holy water. They also use a hallucinogenic brew made from the San Pedro cactus.

As this ancient practice proceeds into the night the Maestro (curer) will even take a sword and fence with harmful spirits to keep them away from the sufferer. How many doctors would be prepared to do that on behalf of their patients these days?